Donkey Kong Forum
General Donkey Kong Discussion => General Donkey Kong Discussion => Topic started by: MCrysdale on March 07, 2016, 09:26:44 am
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I'm brand new to this board. I have had a Donkey Kong machine for about 20 Years. I bought it off a friend when he moved away. It's clean machine that is in good condition. Looks like it had a pretty easy life.
It work great for a number of years, but the 'stopped' working. I didn't have time to trouble shoot it and it sat in my garage for about 15 years. I loved the machine and never wanted to get rid of it, so I hung on to it so I could get it working again some day.
That day has arrived! I've decided to bring it in the house and get it running again. The state of the machine is when plugged in and turned on nothing happens except for a tiny buzz from the transformer/power supply. I have very little experience with electronics, to any advice would be appreciated.
Here is the little I've done so far.
--Went on the web and researched a bunch (learned that mine is an earlier machine with 4 boards and the machine in 100V not standard USA 120V)
1--Check the fuse back by the power switch and tested it with a volt meter just to be sure.
2--I cleaned out the entire machine of dust and and debris.
3--Replace the brittle old slightly chipped T-molding with matching Nintendo T-molding
4--Removed the marquee florescent. I am looking to upgrade it to similar LEDs lighting
5--Pulled out the Power supply and other 2d box (Not sure what that's is) on the removable plywood unit . Open the 2d box and check the fuse in the bottom.
6--Pulled out the 4 PC board unit and inspected them for any visible damage. Replace the old peeling tape off the E Proms with electrical tape (not sure if that was correct, but seemed like a good idea)
7--Put it all back together and confirmed the 2 100V plugs and the power to the 2d box on that plywood board were getting power (they all were)
So it seem like the power supply is working, but monitor doesn't come on and the Game doesn't come up. Even if the monitor was blown, wouldn't I hear some sound?
Any advice on what to try next to get this machine tuned up would be greatly appreciated.
MC
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Sounds like you have a 4-board set, which is definitely more rare than the TKG-4 2-board set that most everyone else has. The monitor (Sanyo 20EZ) has an audio amplifier built into it (the board on the left above the remote board that has the dials on it). So if the monitor is not getting power, you will not hear any game sounds. Have you checked to see if the monitor is getting power? Have you checked any test points on your board sets to make sure it is getting power? Have you got any photos you can post to show us what things look like? I'm sure someone here can help ya.
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"So it seem like the power supply is working"| how would you know that ?
did you use a volt meter ?
maybe its time to call somebody?
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Thanks for the input!
I know it has power because the Marquee light is flickering and stays lit for a couple seconds. I'm going to replace it with some similar LED fixture. I also checked the plug socket with a simple test light (it lit up) and the power to the 2d box next to the power supply.
Now that I suspect the monitor, I did trace the speaker back to the monitor, so I would understand why nothing is coming out of the speaker.
I attached one image of the inside of the machine. I have another the test light lit up poking out of the plug socket.
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The 100v is normal for all DK machines, but yes your 4-board stack is an early version compared to the preferred (just for troubleshooting simplicity) 2-board set.
You seem to have a connectivity indicator that just lights up with power. I'd start by using a multimeter on the power supply connections (the silver box on the plywood mount). Here is what I pulled from my connectors recently:
9P connector:
1brown gnd
2red gnd
3orange gnd
4yellow +12v (multimeter read 12.0/11.9)
5green +12v (multimeter read 12.0/11.9
6blue +5v (multimeter read 5.1)
7purple +5v (multimeter read 5.1)
8gray -5v (multimeter read -5.1)
9white +24v (multimeter read 23.6)
10P connector:
1brown -5v (multimeter read -5.1)
2red -5v (multimeter read -5.1)
3orange -5v (multimeter read -5.1)
4yellow -5v (multimeter read -5.1)
5green gnd
6blue gnd
7purple gnd
8gray gnd
9white +5v (multimeter read 5.1)
10black +5v (multimeter read 5.1)
I have the 2-board set, so mine only requires these two connections, although the other connector is present. If I recall correctly, the third connector links to the SOUND board in the 4-board stack.
Once you've confirmed correct output at the power supply, you basically need to confirm that that power is connected to and maintained to your PCB stack, and to your monitor chassis.
If the monitor has power and the PCB does not, you'll get a white screen.
If the PCB has power and the monitor does not, you'll get a black screen.
To me it sounds like either the wiring to the monitor is not connected (simple fix) or based on what you've said historically, the more likely situation is that the monitor chassis has a power issue (harder fix).
Confirm power connections to your monitor chassis, maybe snap some more pics of the back of the monitor, and report back.
EDIT for a safety tip, although I imagine you're no dummy. The monitor will hold a potentially fatal charge long after the game has been unplugged. Don't go touching the monitor yoke or unscrewing anything on the monitor chassis before discharging the monitor safely. If you don't know what I mean by this, don't attempt the repair yourself.
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Thanks Lifereboot!
All good information. I will start poking at it with the multi meter. I'm a beginner, so it will take some futzing. Thanks for the tip on the monitor, i had a Quix machine (awesome game) that almost zapped me years ago. Don't want a repeat of that:( The monitor is black, so I'm guessing it isn't getting power and hasn't for 10 years, but you can't be too safe.
Once I've checked all the pins and if they check out, that just means the power supply is working, right? The more i get learn, the more it sounds like something with the the monitor is the issue.
Attached another picture just because i can:)
I'll report back on the pin out.
Thanks again.
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Okay,
I put a multimeter on all the pins you listed. I got almost the same values (listed below)
9P connector:
1brown gnd (my value 0)
2red gnd (my value 0)
3orange gnd (my value 0)
4yellow +12v (multimeter read 12.0/11.9) (my value 12.8 )
5green +12v (multimeter read 12.0/11.9 (my value 12.8 )
6blue +5v (multimeter read 5.1) (my value 5.14 )
7purple +5v (multimeter read 5.1)(my value 5.14)
8gray -5v (multimeter read -5.1)(my value -5.2)
9white +24v (multimeter read 23.6)(my value 23.8 )
10P connector:
1brown -5v (multimeter read -5.1) (my value -5.1)
2red -5v (multimeter read -5.1) (my value -5.2)
3orange -5v (multimeter read -5.1) (my value -5.2)
4yellow -5v (multimeter read -5.1) (my value -5.1)
5green gnd (my value 0)
6blue gnd (my value 0)
7purple gnd (my value 0)
8gray gnd (my value 0)
9white +5v (multimeter read 5.1) (my value 5.2)
10black +5v (multimeter read 5.1) (my value 5.1)
So does this mean the power to the boards are all good?
I'm posting 2 pictures of the monitor (sorry for the low light it's the middle of the night). The white ribbon cord from the board looks plugged in and the other end at the monitor was a little loose, but was plugged in (pushed it on a little better, didn't help). I assume that's the signal anyway.
I then traced the power from the plug sockets to the monitor. I spotted a fuse on the board where the monitor power went into the board. I dusted it off and it looked 'good'. I looked around for some other fuses and found another at the bottom of the board. It looks like it might be blown, but it's hard to tell (night, bad light). It is labeled DC300mA, I attached a picture, it's fuse 2.
What should I do next?
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The big fuse you labeled Fuse 1 is "F301" on the Sanyo 20EZ. Pull it carefully, set your multimeter to continuity check, touch each end of the fuse and confirm you get a beep. Do the same with "F302" the small fuse you labeled Fuse 2. Report back.
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I pulled both fuses and checked them.
The F302 fuse has no continuity! Thanks lifereboot!
Obviously it should be replaced. Is this a special Japanese fuse or can I get it at the local hardware store? If I replace the fuse and things start work again, Halleluja! But what would cause this fuse to blow? Do I need to address the cause or just chalk it up to an 'old fuse' and start racking up high scores?
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I pulled both fuses and checked them.
The F302 fuse has no continuity! Thanks lifereboot!
Obviously it should be replaced. Is this a special Japanese fuse or can I get it at the local hardware store? If I replace the fuse and things start work again, Halleluja! But what would cause this fuse to blow? Do I need to address the cause or just chalk it up to an 'old fuse' and start racking up high scores?
F302 is just a normal 4amp fuse rated for 125v. You can pick these up at any hardware store. Change the fuse, and post back with results. If it doesn't blow again, you will probably still need a "cap kit".
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You could get lucky and the only thing you need to do is change the fuse. Buy a few at the store, since there's a good chance there was a reason the fuse blew in the first place.
If you get lucky and it's just the fuse, congrats.
If you put a new fuse in F302 it and it blows immediately, then the next thing to check is the nearby diodes D601-D604 on the monitor chassis. Diodes are apparently an easier fix than anything associated with common causes for F301 being blown, but it may still be beyond my understanding to take you any further than this.
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Thankss
Will do, any hint on what size/kind of fuze it is? I never know with these Japanese parts.
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in here in parts list and diagram http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/sanyo-ezv19raster.pdf (http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/sanyo-ezv19raster.pdf)
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Thanks Jammyy and tilt. Went and purchased new Fuses (based on the old fuse) before I got these replies. Funny thing is the fuse in there was a 300V not a 125V like you guys sent. I've heard that it's okay to replace a lower voltage fuse with a higher, just not the other way around. So I guess my 300V 4A fuse should be okay, right? I will try it when I get home tonight.
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yeah its the Amps that has to be close,,
the voltage no so much , they are ok for that
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Replace the F302 fuse and still no life:( What s is this "cap kit"? I heard a few people mention it. It's replacing some stuff on the board, right? Maybe I can check the D601-D604 diodes.
Thanks again for your help guys, learning more about my machine every day.
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Did the new fuse blow?
A cap kit is a just a term used for replacing all of the capacitors on the monitor chassis as they tend to dry out over time losing their capacitance. They then start to fail or at least not work as intended so you start getting weird things happen like the display will narrow or 'fold over' etc
Various suppliers sell a selection of caps in a kit which comprises of the correct capacitors for a range of monitors.
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i dont know if anyone ask you to check this but do you see neck glow on the tube ,
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this sound you hear is more like a hissing sound
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdy1s-EypXs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdy1s-EypXs)
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The new fuse did not blow. When I powered up the machine I got a little buzz from the main power supply, but nothing else:( As for the glow question, NO the monitor is absolutely lifeless. It even was dead when I discharged it (it's been off for years). The only thing that I get is the buzz from the main power/transformer just beyond the voltage converter, a flickering of the marquee light and thanks to lifereboot, I checked 9 and 10 pin ribbon cables to the 4 board stack. They all were putting out the what looked like the the correct voltage.
Do I have to order a cap kit from someplace special or will the local electronic store have it?
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Here is the troubleshooting flow chart for that monitor. A simple cap kit will not likely fix a no power on situation but you should be able to narrow it down using this flow chart. Good luck!
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll282/dokert/Monitor%20ID/Sanyo20EZVFlowChart.jpg)
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Here is a more detailed troubleshooting guide for the same monitor...
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxtdHBhY2lmaWNvfGd4OjQ2NDc1MmMwNDBlZjFiZjk (https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxtdHBhY2lmaWNvfGd4OjQ2NDc1MmMwNDBlZjFiZjk)
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Thanks peeps, I hopefully will have time to look at this this weekend.
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Apparently I was mistaken, the F302 fuse did blow. I pulled it out and did a continuity check and got a big zero. So I'm trying to look into Diodes 601-604 like the trouble shooting guides said.
Sorry....beginner electronics questions
a) Where are they located?
b) How do I test them?
Thanks for the help
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To touch on one point from earlier in the thread, higher voltage rating and amp rating for fuses is okay, but not lower ratings. In this case, if you try to put a 60V fuse (for example) in where a 125V fuse is required, the results could be very bad, including an outcome that involves flames. If you try to put in a fuse with a lower amp rating than what is required, it will blow immediately.
Bob Roberts has cap kits for sale. It’s quickest and easiest to e-mail him, although his web site is here. I'm sure there are other sources online for the cap kit. You could probably piece together all the caps needed, given enough effort, but the kits from Bob (and possibly other sources) are cheap enough, why bother?
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/ (http://www.therealbobroberts.net/)
e-mail: bob147@bellsouth.net
The deluxe kit w/ audio board caps is $12.00. Shipping will probably be round $7.00. You should be out the door for less than $20.
E-mail bob to tell him what you want, he will e-mail you the price including shipping, and then you send him a check. He sends the order as soon as he gets the check. His process is a bit old school, but he’s been THE go-to guy for many years, for replacement arcade parts. I have a DK cap kit from Bob sitting on one of my shelves which hasn’t become an urgent issue to install (thankfully), and I haven’t gotten around to yet.
Alternatively, Arcade Buffet (regularly on KLOV forums and other retro VG forums) offers re-capping/maintenance services (including full testing and fixing whatever other issues you have). A bit pricier, at around $150 (plus extra if flyback transformer needs replacement), but if you’re not up to the task of doing the capping yourself, then Buffet is also highly regarded in the community.
http://thearcadebuffett.com/ (http://thearcadebuffett.com/)
Lastly, here is a good informative video detailing removing and disassembling a Sanyo 20EZ monitor and associated boards, and re-capping process. (John even refers to Bob Roberts in the video).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQhY-l8nJvg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQhY-l8nJvg)
Hope this helps, please keep us updated on the progress. I know I am eager to see your machine run again. :)
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Also worth mentioning: DO NOT plug the monitor into a wall outlet. As you've discovered, the monitor is rated for 100V, and plugging into a 120V wall outlet will produce bad results. Hopefully you did not already do this in your troubleshooting efforts, but if you did, it would be worth letting us know, because that could help pinpoint the cause of the issues and the necessary repairs.
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Thanks YesAffinity!
Yeah, figured out right away that the cabinet was all 100V before I messed with anything. Originally I thought the power supply was the problem since I was seeing zero power anyplace. I then noticed the Marquee was trying to light up (The typical flashy starter gone bad), so there was some electricity. As you may have read, I then multi meter tested the cabinet outlets and power to the board and all the voltages checked out. I wish I could see if the board was working, but there are no LEDs on it to even show it has power.
I want to keep the machine as original as possible, I replace the T-molding with the 'real deal' flat molding from Coinmunchers.com. I did break down and replaced the florescent marquee light with an LED light bar (absolutely hate florescent, they are such high maintenance), I think it might not be quite as bright, but it looks good. P.S. I bought a 120V LED fixture, but works fine with the cabinet 100V (learned that on line also). I used the same mounting holes.
So.... I'm into the monitor. The F301 fuse is good, the F302 has blown the existing fuze as well as one replacement I purchased (I bought a few). I need to track why 302 blowing...Which leads me to Diodes 601-604,which I'm trying to locate (in the machine). I work days and have kids, so I sometimes get to spend time at night poking at this.
Thanks for the links. I found the 'Sanyo 20EZ Monitor Cap Kit and Rebuild' earlier. I have started watching, but have not got through all 2.5 hour marathon! The disappointing thing is this a working monitor, my doesn't work at all. I wish it would show some life or I had another to test that the board were working.
Anyone see a Diode anyplace?
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Here is a 25 minute video by Ian Kellogg on how to cap your monitor. It will be way better than John Jacobsen's video if that is the one you're considering.
http://youtu.be/KLYeKVt1H6E (http://youtu.be/KLYeKVt1H6E)
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Thanks Aarontruitt! I stayed up late last night and watch the 2:30 video last night and just watched this. Both were very informative. It seemed like the John's Arcade video he seem much more meticulous checking each cap as he put it in. He also re-checked them after they were all in to make sure they are install correctly before he cut the legs. Also wise. I think J Jacobson is more confident with the caps (because it's his kit) so he just goes to town. Both ways work. The more I watch these the more i realize I should do this.
I thought it was interesting how JJ pointed out in the short video that the caps life was something to consider. John's video Arcade video mentioned that if the monitor is completely dead (like mine) that it's probably the Flyback and the 'hot' right next to the flyback (@1:45.30). This could very well be my problem. :(I haven't seen any videos or replacing the flyback.
Also I'm still looking for the 401-406 diodes. Does anyone know where they are located?
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Ian Kellogg makes John Jacobsen's cap kits for him. He sells them at IanKellogg.com
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I'm sure you'll be fine ordering cap kits from Bob Roberts or any of these other guys. For me, I got my cap kit from twisted quarters when I was new to arcade repairs and didn't know much. Apparently, the cap kit I got didn't include all the caps specifically the filter cap. My monitor wasn't in desperate need of a cap kit but I figured I'd get it done while getting some other repairs on my machine.
Anyway, post-cap kit, I noticed some minor "waviness" in the middle of the screen during the rivet and pie levels. Also, jumpman seems to have a small dark spot over his head which follows him around. All kinda minor stuff but it was driving me nuts. I corrected the waviness but moving the picture up on the tube but jumpman still has his shadow buddy. Asked around and was told the filter cap was most likely the culprit.
TL;DR - Get the deluxe kit 8)
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The Diodes D601-604 are located near where the AC power comes into the monitor.
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Cool, I found them, now could someone tell this beginner how to test them with a multi meter.
I jumped in the deep end and removed the monitor internals and I'm going to see about re-capping it while I'm poking around.
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I tested the D601-D604 Diodes and here is what i got.
D601 534
D602 533
D603 534
D604 537
I think those values are correct. I'm still not sure why the F301 fuse blows when the board has power to it. I was hoping they might shed some light on why the monitor doesn't power up:(
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I've been swamped at work and not able to work on this much. Sort of hit a dead end after testing those Diodes.
Anymore ideas on what I could check?
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Are you on KLOV? I'm sure there are people there that can help you get your machine working.
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I'm not, but I'll go check it out.
Thanks
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I have since went to a local guy, Don at 'Past Perfect', that has old machines for sale. He said he knows a monitor guy that could help me trouble shoot. He did comment that with these old monitors that they replace the board (he said for like $80) and that usually solves all the issues. That might be easier than doing a cap kit, but I'm still not sure what the problem is.
I just wish I had a second monitor so I could determine the monitor was the root of my problem. I also contacted a couple other guys and they are game to look at it, but they are not close by. Waiting to talk to the monitor guy to see what his opinion is.
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You cannot use one of those $80 replacement chassis for a couple reasons. The Nintendo cabs output 100v not 120v thru the isolation transformer. The audio amp is also on the monitor chassis. Both of these issues can be overcome with some work and additional parts but its not going to be easy or cost effective.
You best bet is to find some one local that has a cab to test your boardset then go from there. Watch eBay for a rebuilt tested working chassis or send that one off to Chad at Arcadecup or one of the few otehr guys who do monitor work these days.
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I have since went to a local guy, Don at 'Past Perfect', that has old machines for sale. He said he knows a monitor guy that could help me trouble shoot. He did comment that with these old monitors that they replace the board (he said for like $80) and that usually solves all the issues. That might be easier than doing a cap kit, but I'm still not sure what the problem is.
I just wish I had a second monitor so I could determine the monitor was the root of my problem. I also contacted a couple other guys and they are game to look at it, but they are not close by. Waiting to talk to the monitor guy to see what his opinion is.
Hey MCrysdale. not sure what part of the country your are in (or if you're even in the US), but i'm in san diego, california, and I've got my original monitor pulled out of the cabinet, sitting until I can send it off to arcade buffet for a refurbish. It still works great, but was starting to development some visual issues, and I came across a replacement locally, which I purchased just in case, and decided to swap it in when the visual issues started.
Anyhoo, if this helps at all, PM me. Probably a long shot, I'm sure you are nowhere near me, but thought I would throw it out there.
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Bummer to hear the board won't help my cause. Didn't think it would be that easy. Good idea looking for a working replacement, not sure why i didn't think of that.
YesAffinety, I'm in the Bay area. I am driving down to Chanel Islands near LA on Thursday. Not quite San Diego, but closer:) I think I'll keep looking into repairing my monitor, but having a spare sounds like a good idea. I'll keep my eyes out for one.
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Off for Christmas and finally got back to this......
I purchased a new re-capped board that was claimed to be working off EBay. I installed it and double checked i had all the connection correct. On power up it sounded good, there was a buzz and I blipped in some credits. The game started and I could play.
A real relief that the game is functioning correctly for the most part :D
One big problem, the monitor was still off/black. Not even a glow:(. I was thinking I missed plugging in the monitor cable. I checked and double checked. No loose cords. Game went on playing fine. So maybe a I have a bad monitor or is there another test I can do to trouble shoot the monitor.
Hmm maybe the monitor is not getting power....
Suggestions?
P.S. I noticed there was no jump sound??? waka waka as he runs and silence when he jumps?? Couldn't find the first ladder...
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play with the power cables, sometimes individual wires are loose. like for audio on mine it did something similar but adjusting the cable made all the sounds work
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The jump button might not be properly connected if you aren't hearing jump sounds. He may just not be jumping. Check the pins on the connectors and make sure the ground and live wires are connected to the jump button's microswitch. Also with the monitor off, carefully press the neck board towards the neck (avoid the fly back) . If you are getting sounds, the monitor has power because the sound board is part of the monitor on Sanyo 20EZ's. I had a monitor that used to go black and I had to press on the neck board to get it to come back on (also used to smack the side of my machine while I was playing if it went out mid-game).
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There is a 4-pin connector wired to the neckboard, that has to be connected to the chassis board. Probably a dumb question, but you did re-connect that, right?
There's also a small ground wire on the right side of the chassis, which gets secured via one of the chassis hold-down screws. You did re-connect that? I'm not certain, but I would speculate that failing to connect that could result in video not working while audio still works, since audio has its own ground.
Those are two things that come immediately to mind, but I suggest watching Arcade Buffet's video on how to remove a 20EZ chassis from the frame, to see if you missed anything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cIMzB7kLeY&t=322s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cIMzB7kLeY&t=322s)
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Thanks for the input guys. Everyone on this board is always so helpful!
I watched the video (great video) and believe I did everything he mentioned originally. I'll try re-seating the PC board at the back of the yoke and maybe hit the side of the cabinet to see if the monitor flickers.
This is all I did since receiving the re caped monitor boards.
1--I reconnected the 4 pin ribbon cable that goes down to the circuit boards.
2--I connected a 2 pin connector that i believe is the degassing wiring
3--I connected another 4 pin connector that had similar circular pins to the board.
4--I put the board on the back of the yoke to the monitor and connected a grounding wire to it.
once I put the monitor back in I.....
A--Connected the speaker back up
B--Plugged the power back in:)
C--Plugged an unidentified double wire to the PC board that i had previously labeled
I'll figure out the jump issue once I get the darn monitor working??
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does the background music play?
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The intro music plays and then the game starts and you hear the squeaky shoe running with the 7 note loop background music, but nothing when you his the jump button.
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i think the analog sounds have a capicator for each sound on the board. so it could just be a bad cap. I'm not a scientist though so someone else should confirm.
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Can you post a pic of your power supply? With a 4-board set, all available connections should be populated, including 9P SOU, which is unused for 2-board sets.
You did plug the monitor into the 100V outlet within the cab? And, you also have the marquee light plugged in and the marquee light comes on (or failing that, have tested to confirm there is 100V at the outlet)?
As for jump, on the wire loom that interfaces the controls to the cab, pins often become flakey on the male side of the connector. When I bought my red cab, 'up' wasn't working. That pin is no longer firmly seated in the male connector, and when plugging it into the female side, the pin for 'up' pushes out of the male side. Manually pushing it back in fixes the problem. There was also some jankiness with the grounding for the CP harness, which I don't remember the exact details of, but cleaned up by installing a quick disconnect to interface the CP to the cab at the same location as those male/female connectors. Grounding for 'jump' would be something else worth checking.
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Hey YesAffinity,
I have the monitor plugged into the 100 volt socket in the cabinet (never a straight 120 wall socket). The marquee light works (did replace the bulb with a LED fixture). I'll check it it's actually putting out 100V.
Here is a picture of the power supply.
I'll look at the pins on the cable for the jump issue, good tip!
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Looks right as far as the power supply goes. I meant "7P SOU", not "9P SOU". :P
I wasn't aware LED's could replace the originals. Is it a 100V LED, or how exactly does that work? Good to know, either way, but I would like to be more informed on that piece of it, if you would share.
I would also suggest checking where the monitor power cord is soldered to the chassis, in addition to testing for 100V at the outlet. Check to make sure it is firmly soldered to the chassis, you don't have cold solder joints, etc.
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Here is a picture of the fixture I replace for the marquee. Nothing specially really, just some little light up strip i think i purchased at a hardware store (might have been IKEA actually). I cut the cord and spliced the wires. I did plug it directly in the outlet first to make sure it ran off the 100V power supplied okay.
I was poking at my machine a little today and it no longer makes sounds/plays (I can only tell if it's working when the speaker is playing since the monitor still is R.I.P)??? It was working around Christmas, I'm not sure what changed. I wish I knew a local pro that could come help me trouble shoot. The marquee still lights up and the 100V outlet still is putting out 105V, but zero anything on the monitor:(
I did check that 100V were getting to the monitor and it appears it is at the re-capped monitor(s) board I purchased.
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i don't remember if this was explored earlier in the thread, and whether you've done it already, but have you confirmed that B+ voltage is good at the monitor chassis. It should be at 108V, with the cab warmed up (on for at least 15 minutes).
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I'm not sure exactly what you mean by 'B+', but I measured 105V at the board where the power cord is soldered to the monitor board. Not sure exactly what other reading should be around that board to. Troubles me that the speaker is no longer playing the game sounds/music. I don't know if anything is working again.
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I'm not sure exactly what you mean by 'B+', but I measured 105V at the board where the power cord is soldered to the monitor board. Not sure exactly what other reading should be around that board to. Troubles me that the speaker is no longer playing the game sounds/music. I don't know if anything is working again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LqmDMEI1fI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LqmDMEI1fI)
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Yes:)
That looks like something i can try..... When it's not midnight and I have a minute, I'll give it a shot. If i only had Richie Knucklez email, he sounds like he know a few things about these monitors....only he's across the country from me:)
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KLOV forums are a good resource, also. Lots of monitor gurus over there.
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Well....
I broke down and brought my monitor to a TV repair guy that works on old CRTs. I didn't have a high confidence level in him, but he had to more than me. He claims it's a bad fly back. Sounds reasonable, but he says they don't make them any more. He says he knows of a place that will make one for $165 bucks:( Then there is no guarantee that it will fix all my problems. I'm feeling stuck again. i don't have a lot of confidence in this guy, but I'm not coming up with better opinions.
Anyone know where i can get a reasonable fly back?
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I would check twistedquarter.com