Help trouble shooting My old machine

[MCrysdale]

I'm brand new to this board.  I have had a Donkey Kong machine for about 20 Years.  I bought it off a friend when he moved away.  It's clean machine that is in good condition.  Looks like it had a pretty easy life. 

It work great for a number of years, but the 'stopped' working.  I didn't have time to trouble shoot it and it sat in my garage for about 15 years.  I loved the machine and never wanted to get rid of it, so I hung on to it so I could get it working again some day.

That day has arrived!  I've decided to bring it in the house and get it running again.  The state of the machine is when plugged in and turned on nothing happens except for a tiny buzz from the transformer/power supply.  I have very little experience with electronics, to any advice would be appreciated.

Here is the little I've done so far.

--Went on the web and researched a bunch (learned that mine is an earlier machine with 4 boards and the machine in 100V not standard USA 120V)
1--Check the fuse back by the power switch and tested it with a volt meter just to be sure.
2--I cleaned out the entire machine of dust and and debris.
3--Replace the brittle old slightly chipped T-molding with matching Nintendo T-molding
4--Removed the marquee  florescent. I am looking to upgrade it to similar LEDs lighting
5--Pulled out the Power supply and other 2d box (Not sure what that's is) on the removable plywood unit .  Open the 2d box and check the fuse in the bottom.
6--Pulled out the 4 PC board unit and inspected them for any visible damage.  Replace the old peeling tape off the E Proms with electrical tape (not sure if that was correct, but seemed like a good idea)
7--Put it all back together and confirmed the 2 100V plugs and the power to the 2d box on that plywood board were getting power (they all were)

So it seem like the power supply is working, but monitor doesn't come on and the Game doesn't come up.  Even if the monitor was blown, wouldn't I hear some sound?

Any advice on what to try next to get this machine tuned up would be greatly appreciated.

MC 

[aarontruitt]

Sounds like you have a 4-board set, which is definitely more rare than the TKG-4 2-board set that most everyone else has. The monitor (Sanyo 20EZ) has an audio amplifier built into it (the board on the left above the remote board that has the dials on it). So if the monitor is not getting power, you will not hear any game sounds. Have you checked to see if the monitor is getting power? Have you checked any test points on your board sets to make sure it is getting power? Have you got any photos you can post to show us what things look like? I'm sure someone here can help ya.

[jammyyy]

"So it seem like the power supply is working"|  how would you know that ?
did you use a volt meter ?
maybe its time to call somebody?

[MCrysdale]

Thanks for the input!

I know it has power because the Marquee light is flickering and stays lit for a couple seconds.  I'm going to replace it with some similar LED fixture.  I also checked the plug socket with a simple test light (it lit up) and the power to the 2d box next to the power supply. 

Now that I suspect the monitor, I did trace the speaker back to the monitor, so I would understand why nothing is coming out of the speaker.

I attached one image of the inside of the machine.  I have another the test light lit up poking out of the plug socket.

[lifereboot]

The 100v is normal for all DK machines, but yes your 4-board stack is an early version compared to the preferred (just for troubleshooting simplicity) 2-board set.

You seem to have a connectivity indicator that just lights up with power.  I'd start by using a multimeter on the power supply connections (the silver box on the plywood mount).  Here is what I pulled from my connectors recently:

9P connector:
1brown gnd
2red gnd
3orange gnd
4yellow +12v (multimeter read 12.0/11.9)
5green +12v (multimeter read 12.0/11.9
6blue +5v (multimeter read 5.1)
7purple +5v (multimeter read 5.1)
8gray -5v (multimeter read -5.1)
9white +24v (multimeter read 23.6)

10P connector:
1brown -5v (multimeter read -5.1)
2red -5v (multimeter read -5.1)
3orange -5v (multimeter read -5.1)
4yellow -5v (multimeter read -5.1)
5green gnd
6blue gnd
7purple gnd
8gray gnd
9white +5v (multimeter read 5.1)
10black +5v (multimeter read 5.1)


I have the 2-board set, so mine only requires these two connections, although the other connector is present.  If I recall correctly, the third connector links to the SOUND board in the 4-board stack.

Once you've confirmed correct output at the power supply, you basically need to confirm that that power is connected to and maintained to your PCB stack, and to your monitor chassis.

If the monitor has power and the PCB does not, you'll get a white screen.

If the PCB has power and the monitor does not, you'll get a black screen.

To me it sounds like either the wiring to the monitor is not connected (simple fix) or based on what you've said historically, the more likely situation is that the monitor chassis has a power issue (harder fix).

Confirm power connections to your monitor chassis, maybe snap some more pics of the back of the monitor, and report back.

EDIT for a safety tip, although I imagine you're no dummy.  The monitor will hold a potentially fatal charge long after the game has been unplugged.  Don't go touching the monitor yoke or unscrewing anything on the monitor chassis before discharging the monitor safely.  If you don't know what I mean by this, don't attempt the repair yourself.

[MCrysdale]

Thanks Lifereboot!

All good information.  I will start poking at it with the multi meter.  I'm a beginner, so it will take some futzing.  Thanks for the tip on the monitor, i had a Quix machine (awesome game) that almost zapped me years ago.  Don't want a repeat of that:(  The monitor is black, so I'm guessing it isn't getting power and hasn't for 10 years, but you can't be too safe. 

Once I've checked all the pins and if they check out, that just means the power supply is working, right?  The more i get learn, the more it sounds like something with the the monitor is the issue.

Attached another picture just because i can:)

I'll report back on the pin out.

Thanks again. 

[MCrysdale]

Okay,

I put a multimeter on all the pins you listed.  I got almost the same values (listed below)

9P connector:
1brown gnd  (my value 0)             
2red gnd      (my value 0)       
3orange gnd  (my value 0)     
4yellow +12v (multimeter read 12.0/11.9)  (my value 12.8 )     
5green +12v (multimeter read 12.0/11.9  (my value 12.8 )     
6blue +5v (multimeter read 5.1)   (my value 5.14 )     
7purple +5v (multimeter read 5.1)(my value 5.14)
8gray -5v (multimeter read -5.1)(my value -5.2)
9white +24v (multimeter read 23.6)(my value 23.8 )

10P connector:
1brown -5v (multimeter read -5.1) (my value -5.1)
2red -5v (multimeter read -5.1) (my value -5.2)
3orange -5v (multimeter read -5.1) (my value -5.2)
4yellow -5v (multimeter read -5.1) (my value -5.1)
5green gnd  (my value 0) 
6blue gnd  (my value 0) 
7purple gnd  (my value 0) 
8gray gnd  (my value 0) 
9white +5v (multimeter read 5.1)  (my value 5.2) 
10black +5v (multimeter read 5.1)   (my value 5.1)

So does this mean the power to the boards are all good?

I'm posting 2 pictures of the monitor (sorry for the low light it's the middle of the night).  The white ribbon cord from the board looks plugged in and the other end at the monitor was a little loose, but was plugged in (pushed it on a little better, didn't help).  I assume that's the signal anyway. 
 
I then traced the power from the plug sockets to the monitor.  I spotted a fuse on the board where the monitor power went into the board.  I dusted it off and it looked 'good'.  I looked around for some other fuses and found another at the bottom of the board.  It looks like it might be blown, but it's hard to tell (night, bad light).  It is labeled DC300mA, I attached a picture, it's fuse 2.

What should I do next?

[lifereboot]

The big fuse you labeled Fuse 1 is "F301" on the Sanyo 20EZ.  Pull it carefully, set your multimeter to continuity check, touch each end of the fuse and confirm you get a beep.  Do the same with "F302" the small fuse you labeled Fuse 2.  Report back.

[MCrysdale]

I pulled both fuses and checked them. 

The F302 fuse has no continuity!  Thanks lifereboot!

Obviously it should be replaced.  Is this a special Japanese fuse or can I get it at the local hardware store?  If I replace the fuse and things start work again, Halleluja! But what would cause this fuse to blow? Do I need to address the cause or just chalk it up to an 'old fuse' and start racking up high scores?

[tilt]

I pulled both fuses and checked them. 

The F302 fuse has no continuity!  Thanks lifereboot!
Obviously it should be replaced.  Is this a special Japanese fuse or can I get it at the local hardware store?  If I replace the fuse and things start work again, Halleluja! But what would cause this fuse to blow? Do I need to address the cause or just chalk it up to an 'old fuse' and start racking up high scores?

F302 is just a normal 4amp fuse rated for 125v.  You can pick these up at any hardware store.  Change the fuse, and post back with results.  If it doesn't blow again, you will probably still need a "cap kit".

[lifereboot]

You could get lucky and the only thing you need to do is change the fuse.  Buy a few at the store, since there's a good chance there was a reason the fuse blew in the first place.

If you get lucky and it's just the fuse, congrats.

If you put a new fuse in F302 it and it blows immediately, then the next thing to check is the nearby diodes D601-D604 on the monitor chassis.  Diodes are apparently an easier fix than anything associated with common causes for F301 being blown, but it may still be beyond my understanding to take you any further than this.

[MCrysdale]

Thankss

Will do, any hint on what size/kind of fuze it is?  I never know with these Japanese parts.

[jammyyy]

in here in parts list and diagram http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/sanyo-ezv19raster.pdf

[MCrysdale]

Thanks Jammyy and tilt.  Went and purchased new Fuses (based on the old fuse) before I got these replies.  Funny thing is the fuse in there was a 300V not a 125V like you guys sent.  I've heard that it's okay to replace a lower voltage fuse with a higher, just not the other way around.  So I guess my 300V 4A fuse should be okay, right?  I will try it when I get home tonight.

[jammyyy]

yeah its the Amps that has to be close,,
 the voltage no so much , they are ok for that