Help trouble shooting My old machine

[Shnypz]

I'm sure you'll be fine ordering cap kits from Bob Roberts or any of these other guys. For me, I got my cap kit from twisted quarters when I was new to arcade repairs and didn't know much. Apparently, the cap kit I got didn't include all the caps specifically the filter cap. My monitor wasn't in desperate need of a cap kit but I figured I'd get it done while getting some other repairs on my machine.

Anyway, post-cap kit, I noticed some minor "waviness" in the middle of the screen during the rivet and pie levels. Also, jumpman seems to have a small dark spot over his head which follows him around. All kinda minor stuff but it was driving me nuts. I corrected the waviness but moving the picture up on the tube but jumpman still has his shadow buddy. Asked around and was told the filter cap was most likely the culprit.

TL;DR - Get the deluxe kit   

[Scoundrl]

The Diodes D601-604 are located near where the AC power comes into the monitor.

[MCrysdale]

Cool, I found them, now could someone tell this beginner how to test them with a multi meter. 

I jumped in the deep end and removed the monitor internals and I'm going to see about re-capping it while I'm poking around.

[MCrysdale]

I tested the D601-D604 Diodes and here is what i got.

D601    534
D602    533
D603    534
D604    537

I think those values are correct.  I'm still not sure why the F301 fuse blows when the board has power to it. I was hoping they might shed some light on why the monitor doesn't power up:(

[MCrysdale]

I've been swamped at work and not able to work on this much.  Sort of hit a dead end after testing those Diodes. 

Anymore ideas on what I could check?

[hooch66]

Are you on KLOV? I'm sure there are people there that can help you get your machine working.

[MCrysdale]

I'm not, but I'll go check it out.

Thanks

[MCrysdale]

I have since went to a local guy, Don at 'Past Perfect', that has old machines for sale.  He said he knows a monitor guy that could help me trouble shoot.  He did comment that with these old monitors that they replace the board (he said for like $80) and that usually solves all the issues.  That might be easier than doing a cap kit, but I'm still not sure what the problem is.

I just wish I had a second monitor so I could determine the monitor was the root of my problem.  I also contacted a couple other guys and they are game to look at it, but they are not close by.  Waiting to talk to the monitor guy to see what his opinion is.

[Scoundrl]

You cannot use one of those $80 replacement chassis for a couple reasons. The Nintendo cabs output 100v not 120v thru the isolation transformer. The audio amp is also on the monitor chassis. Both of these issues can be overcome with some work and additional parts but its not going to be easy or cost effective.

You best bet is to find some one local that has a cab to test your boardset then go from there. Watch eBay for a rebuilt tested working chassis or send that one off to Chad at Arcadecup or one of the few otehr guys who do monitor work these days.

[YesAffinity]

I have since went to a local guy, Don at 'Past Perfect', that has old machines for sale.  He said he knows a monitor guy that could help me trouble shoot.  He did comment that with these old monitors that they replace the board (he said for like $80) and that usually solves all the issues.  That might be easier than doing a cap kit, but I'm still not sure what the problem is.

I just wish I had a second monitor so I could determine the monitor was the root of my problem.  I also contacted a couple other guys and they are game to look at it, but they are not close by.  Waiting to talk to the monitor guy to see what his opinion is.

Hey MCrysdale.  not sure what part of the country your are in (or if you're even in the US), but i'm in san diego, california, and I've got my original monitor pulled out of the cabinet, sitting until I can send it off to arcade buffet for a refurbish.  It still works great, but was starting to development some visual issues, and I came across a replacement locally, which I purchased just in case, and decided to swap it in when the visual issues started.

Anyhoo, if this helps at all, PM me.  Probably a long shot, I'm sure you are nowhere near me, but thought I would throw it out there.

[MCrysdale]

Bummer to hear the board won't help my cause.  Didn't  think it would be that easy.  Good idea looking for a working replacement, not sure why i didn't think of that. 

YesAffinety, I'm in the Bay area.  I am driving down to Chanel Islands near LA on Thursday. Not quite San Diego, but closer:)  I think I'll keep looking into repairing my monitor, but having a spare sounds like a good idea.  I'll keep my eyes out for one.

[MCrysdale]

Off for Christmas and finally got back to this......

I purchased a new re-capped board that was claimed to be working off EBay.  I installed it and double checked i had all the connection correct.  On power up it sounded good, there was a buzz and I blipped in some credits.  The game started and I could play. 

A real relief that the game is functioning correctly for the most part

One big problem, the monitor was still off/black.  Not even a glow:(.  I was thinking I missed plugging in the monitor cable.  I checked and double checked.  No loose cords.  Game went on playing fine.  So maybe a I have a bad monitor or is there another test I can do to trouble shoot the monitor.

Hmm maybe the monitor is not getting power....

Suggestions?

P.S. I noticed there was no jump sound???   waka waka as he runs and silence when he jumps??  Couldn't find the first ladder...

 

[Rolledcigs]

play with the power cables, sometimes individual wires are loose. like for audio on mine it did something similar but adjusting the cable made all the sounds work

[aarontruitt]

The jump button might not be properly connected if you aren't hearing jump sounds. He may just not be jumping. Check the pins on the connectors and make sure the ground and live wires are connected to the jump button's microswitch. Also with the monitor off, carefully press the neck board towards the neck (avoid the fly back) . If you are getting sounds, the monitor has power because the sound board is part of the monitor on Sanyo 20EZ's. I had a monitor that used to go black and I had to press on the neck board to get it to come back on (also used to smack the side of my machine while I was playing if it went out mid-game).

[YesAffinity]

There is a 4-pin connector wired to the neckboard, that has to be connected to the chassis board.  Probably a dumb question, but you did re-connect that, right?

There's also a small ground wire on the right side of the chassis, which gets secured via one of the chassis hold-down screws.  You did re-connect that?  I'm not certain, but I would speculate that failing to connect that could result in video not working while audio still works, since audio has its own ground.

Those are two things that come immediately to mind, but I suggest watching Arcade Buffet's video on how to remove a 20EZ chassis from the frame, to see if you missed anything.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cIMzB7kLeY&t=322s