Just bought another DK cab - red w/ 4-board set

[YesAffinity]

I'm not sure I fully trust the legitimacy of this cab, but the 4-board set is what I ended up purchasing it for.  It appears to be an original US SET 2 4-board set.  I put this out to the community, to help me figure out what I do and don't have.

What I know I have:

-4-board set w/ ladder glitch and C 1981 Nintendo title screen, I find part number TKG3-06-SOU on the sound board, but no part number on the board that it is married to
-TKG2-UP-US steel nameplate on back, serial number 10498
-original buttons, and presumably original joystick
-some parts appear to be re-painted, like the control panel, possibly the sides, but other red parts appear to be un-re-painted, and I can't tell a difference between any of the red parts
-The marquee doesn't have C 1981 Nintendo of America, like my TKG4 cab has
-Flat t-molding - this stuff is brittle some of it on the lower right side chipped off when I was loading it into my truck
-PT-8A transformer
-No key to get into the back:(
-Power supply with apparently 1982 manufacture date
-A marquee that is partially caved, but apparently undamaged, and can't be fixed until I get into the back of the cab
-Fully working coin door and service button
-Missing dust cover on joystick

[YesAffinity]

more pics

[YesAffinity]

more pics

[YesAffinity]

more pics

[YesAffinity]

more pics

[Rolledcigs]

total scam.. what do you want for it? 

[YesAffinity]

LOL, not selling.    The guys at KLOV confirmed it's legit.  It needs some TLC, and I'm going to commit the time, over time, to getting it much cleaner than it is now.

-replace joystick dust cover
-fix/replace sticking "up" microswitch
-service joystick (it's a bit sticky all around)
-replace missing kickplate (or whatever the bottom wood trim piece is called, on the front of the cab)
-pop out the marquee
-dial in the monitor (which looks great in general, just some general white balancing and color balancing that needs to be done...b+ voltage probably also needs to be adjusted)
-the CP wiring harnesses have wires not seating fully.  "Up" wasn't working when I tested the cab before buying.  Ground popped out on the 7-pin harness, in the transit to my house.  I fixed both temporarily.  Probably won't go to a deeper fix unless these are a persistent problem.  A deeper fix would require modifying and/or replacing the original connectors.
-Clean out the inside.  There's nuts and bolts and quarters and other debris all piled up in the back corner of the inside of the cab, from moving it.  I can't get to any of it until I remove and replace the locks.  I'm hoping the one missing joystick nut is in that pile. 
-there is a lot of cosmetic work that could be done, but frankly, I think I'm going to leave it the way it is.  The lady I bought it off of said she's owned for at least 15 years.  There's actually some initials carved lightly into the right side, lol.  I think the overall appearance gives it character.  It's clearly an arcade survivor.
-probably some other issues once I undertake all of the above and get into the back of the cab

[Jonesy]

Sure it's legit, absolutely no question about it and it's nice....and I want it!

Those dust covers are a waste of time, all they do is scratch and consequently ruin the CPO. As long as the blind plate that sits under the CPO is present, that will do you sir.

Keep us posted on progress! 

[YesAffinity]

Sure it's legit, absolutely no question about it and it's nice....and I want it!

Those dust covers are a waste of time, all they do is scratch and consequently ruin the CPO. As long as the blind plate that sits under the CPO is present, that will do you sir.

Keep us posted on progress! 

Good to know, thank you sir.  I will scratch that item off the list.  It appears the blind plate is there.

I also found the service button not working.  The wire is right next to it, coming out of the connector, but not connected to anything.  Replace the dust cover on the list, with fixing the service button wiring.

[tilt]

Wow... that serial number .  What a find!

[YesAffinity]

Well, I spent a bit of time tinkering yesterday, and have been up since 5:30 a.m., giving this bad boy a thorough once over.  Yesterday, I wiped down the bezel and monitor (both filthy), and made a minor adjustment to remote board brightness.  The washed out colors, fuzziness and too much background blue all disappeared instantly.  The monitor is as crisp as the day she rolled off the production line floor.  This monitor has zero burn in. 

A minor graphic "smear" developed on the right side of the screen, which I knew to be related to H Hold.

Today, I removed the lock on the back door, and got busy with the canned air and the shop vac.  First, I fished all the random pieces and parts that were bouncing around on the floor of the cab when I transported it.  I found the two missing nuts from the joystick, and one missing nut from the CPO bolts.  The CPO and joystick assembly are now re-secured as they should be, complete.

I also found a piece to one of the coin mechs.  It is apparently missing the "C" shaped collar, or whatever you want to call it, that secures it to the main assembly.  Does anyone know what this missing piece is officially called, and where a replacement can be sourced?

I gently pulled the game board out enough to snap the pics of the part numbers.  I still can't find a part number on the main board (the one with dips and majority of connections), but I don't want to pull the board set apart, and am not too worried about it.  Highly improbable I'll find a TRS main board with hand-labeled TKG2 part number married to TKG3 boards. 

I then cleaned up the wiring, and did some wire management.

I then dialed in B+ voltage, to 108V, and fixed the H Hold issue.  Lastly, I centered the image and filled up the screen as much as possible.

The locks my wife picked up at Home Depot yesterday won't work, at least not on the back door.  So, I'll go back and get the same ones I got for my TKG4 cab and SF cab, so one key can fit all.

After the locks are in and everything is re-secured nicely, back against the wall it goes, and will stay.  The last bit of minor restoration I want to do is replacing the front kick guard, or whatever the official name of that lower wood trim is.  Anybody have dimensions and plans for fabbing one of those?

After that, I'm happy with the condition and overall functionality, as a unrestored survivor from a bygone era.  Maybe I'll replace the t-molding some day, but I'm not in a huge hurry on any additional improvements.

[YesAffinity]

The image looks much better than in the picture, but I think you can see the colors are all good.

[Jonesy]

I also found a piece to one of the coin mechs.  It is apparently missing the "C" shaped collar, or whatever you want to call it, that secures it to the main assembly.  Does anyone know what this missing piece is officially called, and where a replacement can be sourced?

These guys are known as either a 'circlip' or 'e-clip' in the UK, I assume they are the same? Should be easy to find.

*edit - also known as a retainer clip*

[YesAffinity]

I also found a piece to one of the coin mechs.  It is apparently missing the "C" shaped collar, or whatever you want to call it, that secures it to the main assembly.  Does anyone know what this missing piece is officially called, and where a replacement can be sourced?

These guys are known as either a 'circlip' or 'e-clip' in the UK, I assume they are the same? Should be easy to find.

*edit - also known as a retainer clip*

Thanks, mate.  I did a quick search based on this info, earlier, and didn't come up with anything useful.  Going to have to dig a bit, and probably e-mail Mike's Arcade to see if they can supply one.

Well, I've completed my efforts, and this machine is running and sitting in a condition that I am more than happy with.  I fixed the marquee slightly bowed in, and found that it is actually cracked on the right side, because of the angle it had been tweaked in, for God knows how long.  Once removing it and re-seating it like it's supposed to be, however, you cannot see the crack.  I also fixed the joystick sticking "down", which I discovered was due to a missing microswitch spacer, which was exacerbated by a build up of gunk where the ms lever traverses over the edge of the 4-way restrictor.  Cleaning up the gunk mostly cleared up the issue, and I see the replacement spacer is like $.95 or something ridiculously inexpensive, on Mike's Arcade.  I'm going to order that, along with a blind spacer, since the original has a good piece missing from it right at the joystick shaft, and I'm going to get one for my blue cab since it doesn't have one.

All in all, I'm overjoyed with this arcade survivor which has the war wounds to prove it, while playing as good as new.

[LD]

nice going.  One day i hope to find a cab.  Glad this one worked out for you.