Please help I do not want to blow up my MsPacman PCB or CRT monitor

[francoisadt]

Hi Forum gamers

Hopefully this is not a repost. I did not saw my new thread, here I try again to submit.

I am on my way set new WRs, once PCBs are connected playing through CRT monitor.

I need my MsPacman PCB play through CRT monitor with JAMMA.

I will appreciate you answer my questions below. It is long but it will help me understand the setups going forward and I cannot afford blow up the PCBs which I will never have another opportunity to acquire, my brother bought it for me bringing them from USA to South Africa.

I bought a 2nd hand arcade box with an original CRT monitor, true leaf joysticks, old cabinet and with a working crappy pacman clone - pacbug - pacman is a bug eater. I use this for testing. So I know at least everything is working from the test/pacbug PCB playing.
 

The pacbug came with own power supply : on it state 115vav or 230vav, check the picc, the one my Mark Hoff help me to get got two ranges? 90 to 135 and 190 to 260.

Now I want the jamma to work with the CRT for output.

On PSU:
I need you to please explain the differences between the old psu and new psu?

What COM stands for on old psu?

What and why two COM points?

Also why is there two GRND in my new psu?

What are the difference between the wires that connect to top/first GRND and what type of wires to 2nd GRND and why?

ON AC/L & N:
On old psu there are two  wires at bottom green en brown, AC/L and AC/N.
What are these for?

I see the old psu do not have a wire in FG? But should? So FG is ground for the plug? Why will someone not earth the plug? It should, right?

To enable CRT play the game from JAMMA and mspacman PCB:



Option 1: Use old PSU
Transfer new psu wires to old psu position point. CRT still runs from old psu but game play on new PCB. New PCb and old psu feed CRT

Option 2: Use new PSU:
Option 2 let me transfer old psu wires to new psu points CRT runs from new psu, game runs on new PCB. New PCb with new psu feed CRT.

How does each option 1 & 2 will work? Setup which wire from one side goes to other side?
Old PSU                   | New PSU
--------------------------------------------
+5V15A equal to      |  +5V16A
COM (Top)               |  GND(Top)
COM (Middle)           |  GND (Middle)
+12V3A                  |  +124A
-5V 1A                    | -5V/1A
_|_ (G)                   |  FG
AC/N                      |  AC/N
AC/L                      |   AC/L



Once above is done - What else must I do to enable the CRT to work with JAMMA?


How certain could I be that the transformer will not have some reverse shock or current flow and blow up my PCB?
Also how certain can I be that if one uses the newer PSU then it will not provide TOO much current? Range is higher?
Will the transformer step down on either of the two PSU to 110V? CRT need 110V right?

For display from JAMMA the display have a 5 point MOLEX. On the CRT their is a white current board on the side also take
5 point MOLEX but I do not know if more than one wire is in sync/composite here from test PCB.

I read on a forum, somebody suggest I need a vertical and horizontal sync to CRT? Jamma only do have a negative sync?



NEW PSU:
new_psu1.jpg
new_psu2.jpg
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1H6b_DohCKnNgAnxj7jcf8VJtFbNS97tF
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ebl_nKlPemyAEf8hpn0g9jVyrKg7w-7x


OLD PSU:
OLD_PSU.jpg
old_PSU2.jpg
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CfWEo1GjT3IPcZnCyfd-_CwsvF25Sxgw
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1o6sMDCJohhJe-_Ia57yHSFy2jBDb_SNs

Regards
Francois du Toit

[johnmcallister]

So far the power supplies are pinned out the same, so just swap wires and you will be good.  Looking at the other stuff now.

Question do you have a meter to measure the voltages?

If not then you need to get one or buy one.

Whats wrong with the existing power supply?
If nothing is wrong with it then leave it in.

Power supplies don't make "more current" they provide what current the game draws, so the game will draw the same current from either power supply but one wont make "more current" and burn up your good board.

[francoisadt]

Thanks many John.

ON PSU:
I am just cautious. The current power supply came with the arcade cabinet. But connections points are not exact the same. See the table mapping/match I guessed are the matches from one side to the other?

So if power supply list "+5V15A"   and the other "+5V16A", does the 1A difference makes a difference? Likewise "+12V3A" vs "+124A"

"amperage rating is the maximum amount of power", so this mean, 16A is better than 15A, incase more power/current is needed there will be.

But on old PSU 3A and 15A connection points will be enough for my PCB? The new one I can then keep as spare?

[francoisadt]

Question do you have a meter to measure the voltages?

Yes I do have checked the voltages connecting mspacman PCb to new PSU to LCD with JAMMA with joysticks. So I know which wire is joystick and which not.
Now I want mspacman to play through CRT Monitor instead of LCD but still use JAMMA plugin and voltage transformer for CRT

[johnmcallister]

+5v is just +5v the 16a part is just the rating of the power supply of how much current it can supply.  Yes your board isn't going to draw more than what either of these power supplies can deliver.  You could run 2-3 boards off the power supplies you have. 

Is the current setup in the cabinet jamma then?  or are you converting it to jamma so that you can use a jamma adapter on the ms pac.

[francoisadt]

+5v is just +5v the 16a part is just the rating of the power supply of how much current it can supply.  Yes your board isn't going to draw more than what either of these power supplies can deliver.  You could run 2-3 boards off the power supplies you have. 

Is the current setup in the cabinet jamma then?  or are you converting it to jamma so that you can use a jamma adapter on the ms pac.

Current setup with a test board is non-jamma with soldered endpoints from testboard edge with CRT Monitor (Also with old psu and stepdown transformer) This is in the cabinet
https://drive.google.com/open?id=10G2e4s-QxmkIRF0YZB5VGBAV7Vq5v_NH


New setup:
= I have added mspacman PCB inside this "test" cabinet with new psu which was tested against JAMMA play back to a LED monitor
(I do not have pick with me now,  am back at home Friday - on work trip, will then take picture from inside) - ) - in essence the board is
inside connected to new psu and controls not yet CRT.


Now I do want the mspacman board inside this "test" cabinet with JAMMA edge connector board with wires NOT connected to CRT

So what must I do to run the game using JAMMA Edge connector to display game on CRT.

As you can see the monitor "interface" board do have a 5point molex and not 6point moldex (4 + 2) like pacman boards have with original CRT.

[johnmcallister]

Well for the monitor the colors should be as follows.
Red-----red
Blue----blue
Green--green
Sync----white   usually it's this color  might be brown, yellow or striped somehow
Ground-black

If you get them wrong nothing will happen, you just wont get a good picture.

[francoisadt]

Thanks John, here is my setup and proof it works.
I did eventually keep the CRT Monitor on its own power supply and use the RGB Molex from JAMMA connect on the RGB input on the Monitor Chassis board video input.


https://drive.google.com/open?id=11gSFu4I16gMMTIjt5ZmByXiAVFqLIyqq

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1162myo4OBMBnaNM__CNU-vgtIWH354JH

[francoisadt]

Very old CRT which do not display colours correctly for upper half of the screen (fading) and only correct colours at bottom half.

I potentially will drop the CRT temporarily to put in a LCD to be able to play properly at least while searching for a TV CRT Monitor 19 inch or a broken cabinet with a working Arcade CRT.

Thanks very much John for all your help and pointers much appreciated you have taken time to answer my non-DK questions here.

[johnmcallister]

Your monitor looks like it just needs to be degaussed.  Either you need to put it into the spot you want and leave the machine off for around 15 minutes or so for the degaussing circuit to reset or cool off and then turn it on and it should fix itself.  Other issue is that the maybe the degaussing coil isn't hooked up and you need to correct that or do a manual degaussing.    Then maybe also do some adjustment on the back of the tube to adjust brightness and colors and focus.

[francoisadt]

Your monitor looks like it just needs to be degaussed.  Either you need to put it into the spot you want and leave the machine off for around 15 minutes or so for the degaussing circuit to reset or cool off and then turn it on and it should fix itself.  Other issue is that the maybe the degaussing coil isn't hooked up and you need to correct that or do a manual degaussing.    Then maybe also do some adjustment on the back of the tube to adjust brightness and colors and focus.

Thanks John before I "throw away" the monitor or keep it for spares, I will try what you suggest here.
What you have written is a mouthful.


A) On "need to put into the spot you want":
What do you mean here the monitor is already vertical.
So do you mean :
1) Turn machine off
2) Discharge monitor
3) lower the monitor or turn it clockwise 180 degrees?

THEN: It will adjust itself? Or must I turn it back 180 anti clockwise? How does the machine knows the picture is not upside down?


B) "degaussing coil isn't hooked up and you need to correct that"

What "area" is that coil or do you have a picture for me showing this?



C) On "adjust colours":
What "area" /wires would be adjustment on the back wire?


D) "To manual degaussing"
Is that not the same as point (A) above? What is the difference?

[johnmcallister]

A.  I'm trying to say that you should be able to put the machine in the final spot that you want it to be in and play.  Once it's put where you want the machine turn it off or if it hasn't been on for a long time just turn it on and the degaussing coil should oactivate and you should be good.   If the monitor doesn't have a degaussing coil then you will need to do that manually.  From the picture that you pointed too it doesn't look like your monitor has one or it doesn't look like it is hooked up.  The coil is usually two wires from the chassis, the circuit board of the monitor, and those wires go to a wrapped wire around the tube.  It is usually black and looks like electrical tape wrapped around the wire. 

B.  You can use an electric drill motor to degauss your monitor.  Search youtube for ways to degauss a monitor or using magnets to do it.

C.  There are or should be several pots around the neck board of the back of the monitor and some should be labeled blue red green, these will either be round disc like that you move with your fingers or it will stick out somewhat kinda like a round cylinder the size of a straw or smaller and you twist it.  I wouldn't do any of this if you don't feel safe as there is high voltage around this area.  You would also need a mirror or a friend telling you what is happening. 

D.  Nope don't do anything you outlined in your A.  except maybe turning it off.

Most crucial thing though to get the colors right is to have it degaussed, try this first and if the colors seem ok then your good.

Last resort is that monitors do get polorized in a sense, if you take a game while it's on and rotate that game in a room it will go in and out of the colors looking good, this is do to the earths magnetic field, the field does have an effect on the monitor.

Hope this helps.