Help trouble shooting My old machine

[MCrysdale]

Replace the F302 fuse and still no life:(  What s is this "cap kit"?  I heard a few people mention it. It's replacing some stuff on the board, right?  Maybe I can check the D601-D604  diodes.

Thanks again for your help guys, learning more about my machine every day.   

[Jonesy]

Did the new fuse blow?

A cap kit is a just a term used for replacing all of the capacitors on the monitor chassis as they tend to dry out over time losing their capacitance. They then start to fail or at least not work as intended so you start getting weird things happen like the display will narrow or 'fold over' etc

Various suppliers sell a selection of caps in a kit which comprises of the correct capacitors for a range of monitors.

[jammyyy]

i dont know if anyone ask you to check this but do you see neck glow on the tube ,

[jammyyy]

this sound you hear is more like a hissing sound

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdy1s-EypXs

[MCrysdale]

The new fuse did not blow.  When I powered up the machine I got a little buzz from the main power supply, but nothing else:(  As for the glow question, NO the monitor is absolutely lifeless.  It even was dead when I discharged it (it's been off for years). The only thing that I get is the buzz from the main power/transformer just beyond the voltage converter, a flickering of the marquee light and thanks to lifereboot, I checked 9 and 10 pin ribbon cables to the 4 board stack.  They all were putting out the what looked like the the correct voltage.

Do I have to order a cap kit from someplace special or will the local electronic store have it?

[Scoundrl]

Here is the troubleshooting flow chart for that monitor. A simple cap kit will not likely fix a no power on situation but you should be able to narrow it down using this flow chart. Good luck!

[Scoundrl]

Here is a more detailed troubleshooting guide for the same monitor...

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxtdHBhY2lmaWNvfGd4OjQ2NDc1MmMwNDBlZjFiZjk

[MCrysdale]

Thanks peeps, I hopefully will have time to look at this this weekend.

[MCrysdale]

Apparently I was mistaken, the F302 fuse did blow.  I pulled it out and did a continuity check and got a big zero.  So I'm trying to look into Diodes 601-604 like the trouble shooting guides said. 

Sorry....beginner electronics questions
a) Where are they located?
b) How do I test them?

Thanks for the help

[YesAffinity]

To touch on one point from earlier in the thread, higher voltage rating and amp rating for fuses is okay, but not lower ratings.  In this case, if you try to put a 60V fuse (for example) in where a 125V fuse is required, the results could be very bad, including an outcome that involves flames.  If you try to put in a fuse with a lower amp rating than what is required, it will blow immediately.

Bob Roberts has cap kits for sale.  It’s quickest and easiest to e-mail him, although his web site is here.  I'm sure there are other sources online for the cap kit.  You could probably piece together all the caps needed, given enough effort, but the kits from Bob (and possibly other sources) are cheap enough, why bother?

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/

e-mail: bob147@bellsouth.net

The deluxe kit w/ audio board caps is $12.00.  Shipping will probably be round $7.00. You should be out the door for less than $20.

E-mail bob to tell him what you want, he will e-mail you the price including shipping, and then you send him a check.  He sends the order as soon as he gets the check.  His process is a bit old school, but he’s been THE go-to guy for many years, for replacement arcade parts.  I have a DK cap kit from Bob sitting on one of my shelves which hasn’t become an urgent issue to install (thankfully), and I haven’t gotten around to yet.

Alternatively, Arcade Buffet (regularly on KLOV forums and other retro VG forums) offers re-capping/maintenance services (including full testing and fixing whatever other issues you have).  A bit pricier, at around $150 (plus extra if flyback transformer needs replacement), but if you’re not up to the task of doing the capping yourself, then Buffet is also highly regarded in the community.

http://thearcadebuffett.com/

Lastly, here is a good informative video detailing removing and disassembling a Sanyo 20EZ monitor and associated boards, and re-capping process.  (John even refers to Bob Roberts in the video).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQhY-l8nJvg

Hope this helps, please keep us updated on the progress. I know I am eager to see your machine run again. 

[YesAffinity]

Also worth mentioning: DO NOT plug the monitor into a wall outlet.  As you've discovered, the monitor is rated for 100V, and plugging into a 120V wall outlet will produce bad results.  Hopefully you did not already do this in your troubleshooting efforts, but if you did, it would be worth letting us know, because that could help pinpoint the cause of the issues and the necessary repairs.

[MCrysdale]

Thanks YesAffinity! 

Yeah, figured out right away that the cabinet was all 100V before I messed with anything.  Originally I thought the power supply was the problem since I was seeing zero power anyplace.  I then noticed the Marquee was trying to light up (The typical flashy starter gone bad), so there was some electricity.  As you may have read, I then multi meter tested the cabinet outlets and power to the board and all the voltages checked out.  I wish I could see if the board was working, but there are no LEDs on it to even show it has power.

I want to keep the machine as original as possible, I replace the T-molding with the 'real deal' flat molding from Coinmunchers.com.  I did break down and replaced the florescent marquee light with an LED light bar (absolutely hate florescent, they are such high maintenance), I think it might not be quite as bright, but it looks good.  P.S. I bought a 120V  LED fixture, but works fine with the cabinet 100V (learned that on line also).  I used the same mounting holes.

So.... I'm into the monitor.  The F301 fuse is good, the F302 has blown the existing fuze as well as one replacement I purchased (I bought a few).  I need to track why 302 blowing...Which leads me to Diodes 601-604,which I'm trying to locate (in the machine).  I work days and have kids, so I sometimes get to spend time at night poking at this.

Thanks for the links.  I found the 'Sanyo 20EZ Monitor Cap Kit and Rebuild' earlier.  I have started watching, but have not got through all 2.5 hour marathon!  The disappointing thing is this a working monitor, my doesn't work at all.  I wish it would show some life or I had another to test that the board were working. 

Anyone see a Diode anyplace?



 

   
 

[aarontruitt]

Here is a 25 minute video by Ian Kellogg on how to cap your monitor. It will be way better than John Jacobsen's video if that is the one you're considering.

http://youtu.be/KLYeKVt1H6E

[MCrysdale]

Thanks Aarontruitt!  I stayed up late last night and watch the 2:30 video last night and just watched this.  Both were very informative.  It seemed like the John's Arcade video he seem much more meticulous checking each cap as he put it in.  He also re-checked them after they were all in to make sure they are install correctly before he cut the legs. Also wise.  I think J Jacobson is more confident with the caps (because it's his kit) so he just goes to town.  Both ways work.  The more I watch these the more i realize I should do this. 

I thought it was interesting how JJ pointed out in the short video that the caps life was something to consider.  John's video Arcade video mentioned that if the monitor is completely dead (like mine) that it's probably the Flyback and the 'hot' right next to the flyback (@1:45.30).  This could very well be my problem.  :(I haven't seen any videos or replacing the flyback.

Also I'm still looking for the 401-406 diodes.  Does anyone know where they are located?

[aarontruitt]

Ian Kellogg makes John Jacobsen's cap kits for him. He sells them at IanKellogg.com