DK Jr. Sanyo EZ20 monitor problems

[fishookred]

So i just picked up this dk jr cab for $60 and its pretty beat up. It needs alot of work but im starting with the monitor and pcb board.
So this crt seems to have some problems. If you refer to the picture (ignoring the graphics from the bad rom chip) the monitor seems to warp the image to where it looks like it is wrapping around something. I cant fix it with the adjustment knobs, so is this something i can fix with a cap kit? Also the board for the monitor is pretty caked with dust and grime, what is the best way to get it completely removed  fom the cab and the best way to clean it?
Thanks!

[dimmu--borgir]

Remove the chassis and wash it by hand using water and ordinary liquid or go washmachine without the liquid. Dry it with hairdryer or oven. You can also use Isopropyl alcohol in an aresol spray can and use qtip. Tedious as hell though. Just make sure its dry if washing. Also make sure you know what you do when removing the chassi since the anode/tube is good for +20k volt.

Then a capkit is a must. If still failing use the Sanyo EZ 20 flowchart here:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=111041

Good luck.

[Jonesy]

Yep a cap kit will fix any distortion problems like wrap around,fold over etc

Remove the monitor completely from the cab but before removing the chassis, you'll need to discharge the tube to allow you to safely remove the Anode, which will be attached by a red, thick wire that will run to the flyback.

The chassis is held in by small screws underneath the frame.

To remove the monitor - release the lower marquee bracket from inside the cab(four screws at the top) this will allow you to remove the bezel. There are two screws at the lower front that hold the monitor to a bracket attached to the cab, take these out. There are two others attached at the top to the rear of the cab that you can get to easily, remove these and the monitor will sit there quite happily. Don't forget to remove the audio, sync and monitor power cables attached to the chassis before you pull it out.

Good luck

[fishookred]

What cables can I uplug on this thing to make my life easier? I cant tell what is hard wired into a board and what is unpluggable

[Jonesy]

To be honest that wont make your life any easier. The main chassis pcb and neck board come off in one complete unit. The only other cable you will need to remove to get the chassis clear from the tube is the yoke cable/connector and you're done.

When you have done the cap kit you'd be wise to check the B+ voltage, this recommended after a cap kit and is adjusted using VR601 on the chassis.

[fishookred]

How do I check b+ voltage and how do I adjust that location? Sorry I'm good with electronics I just don't do circuit boards much

[Jonesy]

It's pretty simple and easier to use the crocodile clips on your meter for this one.

Put your black lead from your meter to the monitor frame and your red lead on TP91 (It's a metal pin, illustrated on the diagram in the other thread) using a screwdriver tweak VR601 until you get to 108 volts DC. It may be worth insulating the metal shaft of the screwdriver with some insulating tape so you don't short on any components as it's a bit tight.

[fishookred]

So I take it the monitor needs to be on to adjust b+? I know it sounds like a dumb question but im just making sure im doing this right

[Jonesy]

Yep, the monitor needs to be on.

[fishookred]

Does Anyone have advice for removing rust? I think this guy must have stored his cab under the sea lol because every metal part has some kind of rust and the wood is mildewed and rotting. Anyway there is this metal strip wrapped around the glass on the monitor thats pretty rusted. Is that something I can use a wire brush on then spray with rustoleum?

[tilt]

Yup!  Definitely needs a cap kit.  My monitor had similar problems with waviness and I was able to fix it with a simple cap kit.  Just take your time and stay organized during the process!  Really helps overall.

[fishookred]

O.K I just recapped the monitor and now it has vertical collapse and there is somewhat of a burning smell. Did I do something wrong or did another component fail?

[Jonesy]

It could be Transistor failure - TR402 & TR403 and also check the Test Switch on the chassis set to normal, which I'm sure it will be.

[fishookred]

I was hoping it would be as easy as flipping the test switch, but unfortunately it wasn't lol. so now I will buy new transistors and see what happens. I might replace the flyback while I'm at it too

[fishookred]

Where is the best place to find these parts? Also im thinking about replacing the HOT and im having a hard time finding that too