Donkey Kong Forum
Blogs => Player Blogs => Topic started by: M.Schrock on May 19, 2017, 07:45:32 pm
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I know that without being able to see the inside of my cab it will be hard to diagnose the problem but I would just like some thoughts on what it could possibly be. I am not knowledgeable with arcade and monitor repair with that said I was playing my original dk machine the screen looked fine no waves or anything when it suddenly all just went black no sound either. I turned it off and back on the Marquee lights up but nothing else. No hum in the speaker and no orange glow on the back of the monitor. My only thought and hope is the power supply went out but the Marquee light still comes on. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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Well after snooping around I found the soc300ma fuse was blown I replaced it and fired it back on and it blew the fuse again so I couldn't be as lucky as just a bad fuse.
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Where is this fuse located?
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The fuse is located by the copper spool. It's a real small fuse. I also looked at the flyback and it looks kinda cruddy I guess tho I'm not sure what a bad flyback looks like. I'll post some pics.
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Pics
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Check out the Sanyo EZ flow chart:
https://segamadebaddecisions.wordpress.com/2015/04/12/the-sanyo-ezz-c-14-inch-colour-monitor-the-20ezs-neglected-14-cousin/ (https://segamadebaddecisions.wordpress.com/2015/04/12/the-sanyo-ezz-c-14-inch-colour-monitor-the-20ezs-neglected-14-cousin/)
See the upper right-hand corner. Looks like it is most certainly a bad flyback. Looks like you also need to test the HOT, with power off. You may need to replace it too. You can test diodes D601 - D604 out of circuit also, just for good measure. Not sure what all could have been taken out before the fuse blew as a result of the flyback, but good to to down the line, and wherever things start testing good (i.e. if the HOT tests good, you shouldn't need to go any further; if the HOT tests bad but diodes test good, replace the HOT, but you don't need to go any further in testing than the diodes....etc).
I recommend https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/ (https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/) once you have your replacement parts list together. Ian Kellogg is another good and reliable source for replacement parts. Since you're going to have to pull the monitor and then remove the chassis to do the repairs, you might as well get a cap kit too, if you're up for it. Search youtube for Arcade Buffett's tutorial on removing the chassis. It's easy to follow, and once you've done 2 or 3 20EZ chassis pulls, it becomes second nature.
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Thanks for the tips. Yea it looks like I got my hands full I've never replaced a flyback or done any sodering before. Hopefully all goes well best case scenario it's a learning experience, worst case I blow up my dk machine it took me forever to find lol.
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KLOV is a good source for working, recapped, etc. chassis from time to time. If you don't feel like your up to it and/or don't want to make the additional investment in soldering equipment, your best option might be replacing it and selling the non-working chassis to recover some of the cost.
If you're going to do the work yourself, in addition to a decent soldering iron, I strongly recommend getting a desoldering gun. Unfortunately, the ones that are worth their weight are pricey ($250+). They are a good investment if you're going to be undertaking a lot of soldering work, and frankly without one, even if it's just a flyback and maybe the HOT and a couple diodes that need to be pulled and replaced, you are going to sink an enormous amount of time (and likely pull out a lot of your hair) removing solder with the standard desoldering braids and pumps. Just my $.02. :)
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Desoldering went mostly smooth I got the flyback out and I took out the h.o.t it did indeed test bad. So I need to replace both of those. Now I gotta wait on some replacement parts.